Ben and Claire had Switzerland in mind when they left Austria. A last-minute change of heart sent them south into Italy instead, starting with a petrol pump that took their money twice, and ending in Florence and Rome.
A stressful stop before we’d even left Austria
Before crossing out of Austria, we pulled into what turned out to be an unmanned petrol station, just a row of pumps with no shop or staff attached. Ben tried to fill up, paid €128, and nothing came out. He tried again, same result. Two failed attempts, €256 taken between them, and an empty tank. We had a real moment of panic over that kind of money disappearing with nothing to show for it.
We photographed everything we could, the pump itself, the display, the timestamp, Ben’s fuel gauge, then got in touch with the bank straight away. They were excellent, we sent the images over chat, had a quick call, and were told the money would be refunded within about a month. A short while later we found a staffed station, filled up without issue, and carried on.
A change of plan mid-drive
We’d been heading towards Switzerland, no border control as we left Austria, when Claire found herself wanting Italy instead. Rome had been on Ben’s radar since before we even left the UK, and having already taken in so much mountain scenery, Zakopane, Slovakia, Bosnia, Austria itself, the pull towards something different was strong. Switzerland will still be there for another time. Ben was completely on board, so we turned the wheel south towards Italy instead of continuing across.
A card goes missing
A couple of hours from Florence, around 6pm, we stopped at an outdoor shopping outlet just off the motorway for food. It was only once we’d set off again that we realised Claire’s bank card was gone, dropped somewhere between the restaurant and the car, or left behind entirely, we still don’t know which. We checked the banking app immediately to see if it had been used, it hadn’t, so we cancelled it there and then. Ben got a replacement ordered with the bank the following day. Not the first unexpected hiccup of this particular drive, but sorted quickly enough.
Arriving in Florence, late and ready for bed
We reached Florence around 9:30-10pm, by the time the car was parked and unpacked it was firmly bedtime, so showers and straight to bed for the kids so we could actually enjoy the next morning well rested. Our accommodation for the one night was a lovely find, high ceilings, big draped curtains, a small balconette looking over a courtyard, it felt every bit Italian.
One full day in Florence
We’d only booked the one night, planning to make the most of Florence across a single full day before driving on to Rome that evening, another two to three hours further. After a simple continental breakfast, we packed up and set out to explore.
The city centre is beautiful, we spent the day taking in the main sights: the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s famous old bridge, along with various monuments and statues dotted around the centre. None of the tourist spots we visited cost anything to see, they were all public areas, which clawed back some money given how expensive Florence turned out to be for food and drink.
What things actually cost
A few examples, since prices weren’t displayed anywhere we went, and the numbers surprised us. A single matcha at a coffee shop came to €13. At a gelateria, two single-scoop cones for the kids plus one small americano came to €22 total. Nothing outrageous individually, but it adds up fast when nothing’s priced upfront.
The wine windows
One of the loveliest, most distinctly Florentine things we did was visit one of the city’s wine windows, tiny openings built into the walls of old buildings, some dating back to the 1500s, originally used to sell wine directly to the street. You press a bell, a small arm appears from a hole in the wall with your drink, and that’s it. It’s a charming, very Florence thing to do, and a popular one for good reason.
Everywhere we wandered in Florence had that same quality, quiet, elegant, traditional, picturesque at every turn.
By the end of the day, tired and full of gelato, we packed the car back up and set off for Rome.
On to Rome
The drive to Rome was just under three hours, mostly a straightforward stretch of motorway, quick and easy compared with some of the driving we’d done recently. Ben had wanted to see the Colosseum since long before we left the UK, so finding somewhere central enough to reach Rome’s main sights easily was the priority while Claire searched for accommodation on the way.
We found an apartment for two nights that listed breakfast as included, though in practice that meant the fridge had simply been stocked in advance, pastries, drinks, coffee, tea, some eggs, alongside a bit of water. Not a served breakfast, but a really useful touch, we had something to eat and drink the moment we arrived, and breakfast sorted for the following two mornings without having to think about it.
Where to stay if you want to walk everywhere
We were based near Piazza Navona and the Jewish Ghetto, right in the middle of it all, which put us about a twenty minute walk from the Trevi Fountain. The car went straight into a garage on arrival and stayed there for the full two nights, plenty of central Rome is restricted to regular vehicles anyway, so there was no reason to drive once we’d parked. Honestly, if you’re staying anywhere central in Rome, it’s hard to go wrong, everything felt within twenty or thirty minutes on foot.
The area itself was full of character, big main streets giving way to a maze of smaller ones, and something worth finding down almost every alleyway, cafes, courtyards, little restaurants and shops tucked away everywhere you looked.
Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum
Our first full day started with the Trevi Fountain, and a wander round the surrounding streets, along with a few cathedrals and other monuments dotted through the centre. The main viewing area is free, but there’s a small sectioned-off spot right at the front of the fountain you can pay to access, €2 per adult, free for children under six (ours were five and seven at the time, so we only paid for the adults). Well worth doing if you can, it meant we got right up close, and the children could properly make their wish and throw their coins in rather than doing it from a distance.
We’d booked Colosseum tickets online in advance, worth doing, popular slots sell out, and went for a 5pm entry so we’d have the rest of the day free beforehand.
We did need an hour back at the apartment partway through the day, for something personal, a family funeral happening back home that Claire was able to join remotely. Once that was done, we headed out for the Colosseum itself that evening.
It was a brilliant experience. The scale of it is hard to describe, grand and extreme in a way that’s true of Rome generally, the architecture throughout the city left us wondering how anything on that scale was even possible with what people had available to them at the time. Our ticket also covered the surrounding old town area afterwards, which was well worth exploring too.
The kids’ attention held for about thirty to forty minutes before the questions about how much longer started, it was hot and busy, fair enough at their age. One practical tip: you can’t buy drinks inside the Colosseum itself, so come prepared. There are vendors and people selling water on the outskirts, though we’re honestly not sure how official that is.
What we ate, and a morning with friends before leaving
We ate at a few different places around Rome, and everywhere was good, food and drinks both. It didn’t feel as expensive as Florence had, though that might just be down to which venues we happened to pick rather than a rule for the city as a whole. Across our three full days there, we averaged around £115 a day, Rome is a pricier destination generally, and we did factor in a few paid activities along the way.
Our last morning had a lovely surprise built in. Some friends from back home happened to be in Rome at the same time, over from a Eurocamp trip for a few days to explore, and we’d been messaging back and forth, so arranged to meet up before we left. We were checking out that day anyway, heading onward to France, so we spent the morning with them near Vatican City, had breakfast together, and had a wander around that part of the city before saying our goodbyes and setting off on the drive to France.
The timing genuinely couldn’t have been better. There’s something about meeting people you actually know, people you can just talk to properly, that gives you a real home-from-home feeling, and I was starting to feel a bit homesick around this point in the trip. Spending that morning with them lifted something in me I hadn’t quite realised needed lifting.
Worth knowing: Italy’s motorway tolls
One thing that caught us off guard, and something worth flagging for anyone driving through Italy: the motorways (not the city centres) are heavily tolled. Some tolls are paid there and then as you go, small amounts, around €2.50-3 a time. Others work differently, you take a ticket as you join the motorway, then feed it back in when you exit, and the amount charged depends on the distance covered, sometimes up to around €20 in one go.
It adds up over a longer drive, and it’s easy to underestimate if you’re not expecting it. We paid by card throughout without any issues, we didn’t have cash on us at any point, but it’s worth knowing both options exist. Just something to budget for if you’re driving through Italy or Tuscany specifically.
What else is possible when the destination you’d planned turns out to be less exciting than the one you didn’t?
FAQ
Is Florence expensive to visit? Food and drink prices caught us off guard, several places didn’t display prices at all, so it’s worth asking upfront if cost matters to you. The upside is that many of the best sights, the Ponte Vecchio, the main monuments, cost nothing to see.
Is one day enough to see Florence? It’s tight, but workable if you focus on the historic centre rather than trying to fit in museums or galleries too. We’d happily have stayed longer.
What are Florence’s wine windows? Small historic openings built into building walls, originally used from the 1500s to sell wine directly to passersby. A number are still active today, worth seeking one out for a distinctive local experience.
Is the drive from Florence to Rome straightforward? Very, for us it was under three hours, mostly motorway, one of the easier drives of the trip.
Where’s the best area to stay in Rome if you want to walk to the main sights? Anywhere near Piazza Navona or the Jewish Ghetto put us within twenty to thirty minutes of everywhere we wanted to see. We’d happily stay in that area again.
Do you need to book Colosseum tickets in advance? Yes, popular time slots sell out, so book online ahead of your visit rather than turning up and hoping.
Do you need cash for Italian motorway tolls? Not necessarily, we paid by card throughout, though cash appears to be accepted too. Just budget for the tolls themselves, they add up more than you’d expect on a longer drive.
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